Jambay Dorji

One of the most important attributes that your country has…one that you may take for granted…is the fact that your population sees us first as people and secondarily as visitors and lastly, as buyers. We have traveled to so many countries where we have been attacked by hoards of vendors who want us to buy their tee shirts and trinkets. In Bhutan, we were free to explore without having to ward off anybody.  What a joy.

During our 18 days of travel — on the roads, in small towns and larger cities, walking across – well, some of the way across — a centuries-old chain bridge, in a Dzong (a combination monastery/district administration building, originally built as a fort) , looking at stupas large and small, a school, a market, a flower show, a festival, eating surprisingly good picnic lunches, turning prayer wheels, feeling the wind shaking the prayer flags, chasing after butterflies, orchids, birds, talking, talking and talking to people — we often found ourselves looking at each other, nodding, smiling, simply joyful to be where we were.

Nothing we had learned before we left, none of the careful planning with Windhorse Tours sales manager Jambay, could have prepared us for this amazing trip. A trip customized for just the two of us — a driver, Tenzin, and an SUV that made maneuverings those roads (those roads!) possible and, with the greatest luck — Jambay as our guide. If we were wise, and we believe we were, in choosing Windhorse Tours from the many companies available, we were deeply fortunate in having Jambay select us. We think our desire to go on a longer, slower, trip across Bhutan encouraged him to take us on birding, checking out little used hotels, traveling roads most guests never see. And the time of year. June is not a heavy tourist season. The books call it “Monsoon Season” but it is really just a lush and glorious summer month with a slight bit of rain now and then. A magical semi-tropical zone — rushing rivers, cascading waterfalls, fruits, vegetables, flowers, butterflies and birds, green fields and wandering cows and horses and monkeys.

We are two well-travelled people in our 70s. I turned 79 on the trip. We have never travelled together before, but have known each other for 40 years and separately have been to most of the usual and unusual European and American cities and to a wide range of Asian and mid-eastern countries. From the usually unseen mountain villages of Myanmar to the unknown vistas of Greenland.  We thought we knew…and then we arrived in the Kingdom of Bhutan.

This is the only place either of us has been that is not abused by tourism — the number of people invited into the Kingdom each year is limited. The motto of the Tourism Commission is “High Value; Low Volume.” On the Windhorse Web site (www.WindHorseTours.com) we are urged to be travelers, not tourists. And it works.

All of the mechanics of the trip worked too. The breath-catching flight on Druk Airways into Paro. The hotels – the first one we stayed at in Paro, the Gantey, was a palace redone as a hotel and was hosting a wedding our second day there. Of course we were invited and with no fuss Jambay changed the itinerary to make it possible – the first of many changes to suit us and our needs – or the circumstances. The quality of our accommodations varied across the country, from basic farmhouse to luxurious resort. But all were clean, well-managed, (And yes with private bathrooms and good showers) and views that made us wake up and walk to our windows and marvel…clouds, mountains, the river and fields below.

The high points were the festivals, an important part of the religious and community life of each district, the Dzongs and lighting butter candles to help with our Karma, visiting a school and being invited to attend assembly, a visit to the home of the father of a Windhorse Manager high in the mountains on roads that really are not roads, a nunnery where a young woman was just entering, an explanation of crime — or no crime — in the district by the head of police who joined us for dinner. And ever and always the explanations by Jambay and others of the traditional art, religious and secular, and the Buddhist religion of Bhutan. In a country of only 700,000 people, we often found ourselves talking with friends, relatives, schoolmates of Jambay and Tenzin. The most helpful man sitting behind us at a festival? The Assistant Governor of the District and Jambay’s high school physics teacher. That girl learning to be a weaver in a craft school? Tenzin’s cousin. The monk who met us at one monastery in the East? A high school bad boy friend of Jambay’s. That police official? Another friend.

We know we were tourists – but we were invited into the Kingdom. Given glimpses of a way of life we can never really understand but came to appreciate. Our lives are enriched. We are deeply grateful to Windhorse, and especially to Jambay, even for the landslide that blocked our way along a mountain road. We are sure he and Windhorse arranged for that as well as for all the never-ending excitement and beauty of our journey.

Bhutan Traverse From West to East.
Hi jambay
Sorry my reply is late but I really wanted to give some feed back..
My tour with all of you was actually great and I have nothing bad to say. All hotels accommodations were good. Maybe the one in Punaka can improve but we were only there one night just to sleep so it was tolerable. I think the food was good and everywhere we went, the food was adjusted to us foreigners so that was really nice

For the drive, thanks to our “James bond” driver, I always felt safe! You and tilsrum did a fantastic job in giving explanation and background info! You were always welcoming and allowed to be flexible if we wanted to change plans!!! I felt safe and comfortable spending 2 weeks with all of you.

I really don’t have any bad thing to say! I’ve been missing the trip so much since I got back I definitely would like to go back!!!

I feel that everyday I leaned something new and the cultural differences of west and east was very interesting! You made the trip full of different colours I never felt it was repetitive information! Although we visited a lot of temples, I felt that the trip had a mixture of shoppings, hiking, temples, festivals, crafts, and getting to know the local way of living!!!! I really enjoyed the trip and feel that it was really well organised!!!

Thanks again for all the great work!!
Hope everyone is doing well and let me know if there is anything else you need!!

TID – 687, Dec 09-20,2013 Grand Cultural Tour
We are so grateful and inspirted by our trip to the amazing country of Bhutan.. Our Windhorse guide, Jambay was so knowledgeable, and took extra good care of us all. Chimmey such a kind presence and capable driver , we felt so safe on the rough and winding roads through the beatiful, mountains, passes and valleys.

Jambay included special experiences for us to experience , like a home visits and rituals as well as helping us deal with my husband’s health crisis. Kinga and Deschen we Thankyou so much as well. for supporting us. ( We wanted to let you all know,he is well and healthy..) We directly experienced the compassion of Bhutanese people and values for caring for others, based on Buddhism. We highly recommend Windhorse travel and team . They ‘go the extra mile’ offerring their excellent skills and experience with guiding tours, well trained teams and welcome.

with Gratitude, Merra Y.. Minneapolis, MN. USA

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TID 687 Grand Cultural Tour (Dec 09th to Dec 20th) 2013

Well, Patrice and I have been back from Bhutan for about 10 days now. What a marvelous trip!
Chimi and Jambay provided extraordinary service, flexibility, and good humor in accommodating our little group’s challenges. Chimi’s ready smile was always a pleasure and his driving skill exemplary. Jambay made numerous extra efforts for us, was always successful in providing us unique experiences. He also showed total patience and resourcefulness in helping us through William (and Merra’s) medical crisis.

Windhorse did an excellent job preparing us for the trip, and also in helping with William’s encounters with the medical facilities.

I have nothing but praise and gratitude for the service you’ve provided.

Thank you!

für windhorse
wir, 3 Berliner freunde, stießen duch zufall auf die website von windhorse für unsere geplante reise nach buthan
Die schriftliche kommunikation klappte sofort sehr effektiv und überaus freundlich.Jambay erwies sich als sehr verläßlich,

alle vorbereitungen verliefen reibungslos : daten, visum usw

Empfangen wurden wir von einem führer benjeh und einem fahrer, die ebenfalls sehr freundlich und zuvorkommend waren und sich unserer annahmen

Während der ganzen reise waren sie offen für unsere ideen und vorschläge. Auf unsere 1000 fragen wußte benjeh immer eine antwort…Ich würde jederzeit mit wieder mit windhorse verreisen – sie natürlich auch weiterempfehlen

liebe ostergrüße
rosa

Dear Windhorse –

I traveled with you in Bhutan in Sept 2010 for the festival tour. I\’ve just recently returned to the US after months of travel and can’t speak enough about Windhorse or Bhutan. The trip was majestic and the introduction to the culture of Bhutan amazing. I am most grateful for your wonderful office staff who made all visa/prep arrangements and our guide “Jombe” and driver. Both were amazing staffers. I hold my trip to Bhutan close to my heart and look forward to a trip to the east once it opens up to more tourism. Most grateful in New York..

Helen C. (Dragon Festival Oct 2010)

TID196: Bhutan Tour from 15-21 Nov, 2008
Hello Ugen, Wanted to let you know that we had a wonderful journey to Bhutan. We were given a great tour by Jambay and Kinga and his associate took us for a delicious meal in Thimphu. If you like I can send you a website to see pictures from the trip. Take care of yourself. It was a terrific experience. Sincerely, Gloria S.

TID:147: Complete Bhutan Travese into India (Oct 6-21,2008)
Dear Ugen, We had a marvellous time! Both Jambay Dorji and Mr Baliman, our driver, could not have been more helpful; please convey our thanks once again to them. The hotels were not all as advertised to us but were better. We had been prepared to ‘rough it’ a little, especially in the east, but the level of accommodation, washing facilities and food was excellent throughout. The car was very comfortable and we were able to visit more places than a larger group would have been able to do.

We were very pleased to be invited by Windhorse for an enjoyable evening in Thimpu. Vivienne, my wife, has commented on this on the form for feedback which we gave to Jambay in Samdrup Jonkhar.
Overall, we would have no hesitation in recommending Windhorse to others. The only comment we have which you might like to consider is that it is no longer true that the Indian rupee is accepted alongside the ngultrum. We came through Delhi and changed pounds sterling into rupees at the airport there. As usual, such exchanges like to give out high denomination notes. Fortunately we asked for a large number of Rs.100 notes but still had several Rs.500 notes. As we approached the end of the trip, we happened to ask Jambay about using these notes and he told us that they are no longer accepted as legal tender in Bhutan. We managed to negotiate an exchange of these notes but others may have some difficulty in doing this. You might like to warn other tourists about this so that they ask only for Rs.100 notes at the currency exchange. Regards, Chris

Dear Kinga
We would like to thank you and Ugen for a wonderful time in Bhutan. We loved your country and the friendly people there.
Thank goodness there are still places like Bhutan to remind us Westerners of the values and priorities we have forgotten.
Gudu and Jambay were perfect. Jambay even made sure to order our favorite local foods for our last lunch. Truly touching. We were also very impressed that you took the time to have lunch with us and very much enjoyed meeting you. We will recommend Windhorse to our friends for sure.

I provided Gudu and Jambay with a CD with the pictures I took of them during our trip but forgot one of Jambay at the Art Cafe in Thimphu.
I would be very grateful if you could please e-mail Jambay this picture.

Many thanks again for everything